Showing posts with label clothing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label clothing. Show all posts

Monday, February 7, 2011

Famed Hat Designer Sally Victor

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Famed hat designer Sally Victor was born Sally Josephs in Scranton PA on Feb 23, 1905. Her early education included studying painting in Paris France for two years. In 1927 she married Sergiu Victor who was a hat manufacturer. Her design career began when she was a millinery buyer at Macy’s Department Store in New York City. In 1934 she was given $10,000 by her husband to setup her own shop. She was so successful, sometimes called the dean of American millinery design, within five years Sergiu closed his own manufacturing company and joined her.


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Victor had her own ideas on millinery for women. Victor declared a good hat can be worn any time. “You can wear a black velvet hat in June or a white hat in November if the it looks well”. Her goal was to design hats that made women look prettier.


Her designs were heavily influenced by art exhibitions and architecture, calling on her early years of art study in Paris. A 1948 exhibition at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art inspired designs in a Franco-Flemish mode. Later a line was crafted based on Moco Polo. She also borrowed inspiration from buildings by Frank Lloyd Wright’s Guggenheim Museum, crafted all in straw. Among her best known work was the collapsible straw hat, the war worker’s turban, and the airwave or piecrust hat. She crafted custom hats for Queen Elizabeth II, Eleanor Roosevelt, Judy Garland and perhaps her most known work is the pie crust hat worn by Mamie Eisenhower at the inauguration.

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From the beginning of her career she was ranked one of the leading American milliners along with Lilly Dache and John Fredericks. She was among the first to establish a ready to wear line, Sally V. She retired in 1968 and sadly passed away in New York in 1977.

These selections are on view at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, Gift of Sally Victor, Inc. They are only a sample of the thousands of exquisite designs by Victor during her lifetime. Today Sally Victor hats are in high demand.

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Wednesday, December 29, 2010

Wallis Simpson: You Can Never Be Too Rich or Too Thin

Wallis Simpson: You Can Never Be Too Rich or Too Thin
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While not being the first woman to say it, she certainly did live it.

She was born Bessie Wallis Warfield on June 19, 1896 and grew up to be the Duchess of Windsor, wife of Prince Edward, the former King Edward VIII of England. Her father died shortly after her birth leaving her mother penniless and dependent on relatives for a home and support. Despite poor beginnings, Wallis was educated in private schools and became adapted to having only the finest. In 1916 she met and married her first husband Early Winfield Spencer, a US Navy pilot. For the next 8 years they separated and re-united several times and it was rumored that Wallis was having an affair with an Argentine diplomat. In 1927 they divorced.


Her second husband was Ernest Aldrich Simpson, a married shipping executive who divorced his wife in order to marry Wallis on July 21, 1928. They lived extravagantly, way beyond their means in London where in 1931 Wallis met the current mistress of Prince Edward, Lady Furness. For the next 3 years Wallis and Prince Edward would meet only at social events. But by 1934 the Prince was besotted with her and in the words of his biographer, he became slavishly dependent on her.
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Prince Edward ascended the throne as King Edward VIII on January 20, 1936. Sadly marriage with Wallis was not to be as she was not received, being still married to her second husband and divorced from her first. It was deemed morally unacceptable to the British subjects and was opposed by the Church of England. Wallis would not be tolerated as the Queen. King Edward made the decision to abdicate the throne in favor of the woman he loved. 365 days into his rein, on Dec. 11, 1936 he made a broadcast to the British Empire “I have found it impossible to carry the heavy burden of responsibility and to discharge my duties as king as I would wish to do without the help and support of the woman I love.” On December 12 he became the Duke of Windsor. On June 3, 1937 they were married in France. Even the Church of England refused to sanction the union. No members of the Royal Family were allowed to attend. He gave up the throne of England for the woman he loved.

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Wallis was denied the royal title in the style of Her Royal Highness. At first the Royal Family did not receive her formally but Edward did sometimes see his family. She was known for having a sharp tongue and had several unflattering names for members of the Royal Family.

Living in France in the pre-war years there were rumors that the Duke and Duchess of Windsor were Nazi sympathizers. The FBI compiled files in the 1930's suggesting she was a German agent. Together the Duke and Duchess did make a social visit to Germany and met Adolf Hitler who reportedly said ‘she would have made a good Queen”. During WWII the Duke was given a military post in France and the Duchess entertained friends associated with the fascist movement. Finally the British Government moved the pair to Bahamas where, in the view of Winston Churchill, they could do the least damage to the British war effort.

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While not the most favored couple of the time, they probably were close to the best dressed. Wallis spent a large fortune on her clothing and jewelry. She was not a beautiful woman but gifted with grace and charm, coupled with designer clothes you really wouldn’t have noticed. Edward was a womanizer before meeting Wallis and there’s no evidence that he continued after their marriage. Rumors of affairs followed her the rest of her life, if they are true or not no one will ever know.

This famous dress was designed for Wallis by Elsa Schiaparelli and the fabric was designed by Salvador Dali. Many of Wallis' fashions were designed by Schiaparelli
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After the War they spent the remainder of their years in France being among the elite, hosting parties, looking their best. On May 28, 1972 the Duke died at his home in Paris. The Duchess retreated from public life and died on April 24, 1986. They were buried side by side in the Royal Burial Ground.

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Below are some of our fashions we think the Duchess of Windsor might have worn.

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Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Even as a child I loved magazines. Aunts and Uncles would bring me their old magazines and I would add them to my stash. Unfortunately my parents weren’t wild about my collection, so slowly while I was at school my piles got smaller. Didn’t matter to them that we had every issue of National Geographic on shelves in our basement....that belonged to them....Ladies Home Journal, McCalls, Seventeen, Vogue, and Glamour just wasn’t in the same league as National Geographic so my stash got tossed.
Vitality Shoes 1955 Journal
Today I continue searching for those vintage magazines I found so entertaining in my youth. I search flea markets and antique stores looking for that perfect issue to add to my collection. You can find rare issues in many online venues but nothing compares to the thrill of actually capturing them from estates and auctions.

Mountains of information can be gleamed from the pages, even if only for a chuckle. Mainly for me it takes me down memory lane when life was simple and often humorous. I especially love the ads. Does anyone remember: “Unguentine”? Did you know Greer Garson was a cook and created many recipes? And “You’ll feel lovelier with your ODO-RO-NO double circle of protection”? I’m not sure what you do with it exactly but I bet it worked wonderfully.

I’m much ridiculed about my old magazines but I find NO one comes to my house without picking one up and diligently studying each page and eventually screaming ‘my Mother had one of these’. My greatest compliment came from my husband when he asked if he could have one of my 1966 Consumer Guides to take to work for his friends to admire.

When you find them don’t pass them by. There’s a wealth of entertainment inside those pages. After all don’t we all want to know who Eddie Fisher dated after Liz dumped him?

Lately I’ve been collecting vintage clothing ads.
Van Raalt Slip 1955 McCallsRain Dears 1955 McCalls

Corsets and Lingerie 1920s
1930's Sears, Roebuck Catalog
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Miss Swank ad from 1949 McCall's Magazine
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Daniel Green 1949 McCall's Magazine
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Colorful Dresses from the 1956 Aldens Catalog
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Swirl ad from the 1960 McCall's Magazine
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J. C. Penney Co. Coats
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Lastly this little treasure was found at the bottom of a vintage hat box.

Please feel free to copy any of these ads. If you are looking for something special drop me an email and I"ll see if I can find it.

Here's a list of our network of sellers

My Vintage Cocktail on Etsy

Catseye Vintage on Ecrater

After Dark Vintage on Ruby Plaza

Vintage Baubles

Catseye Vintage on Etsy

Alley Cats Vintage on Etsy

Vintage Baubles Too on TIAS

Alley Cats Vintage on Ruby Lane