Irene Saltern, Unsung Pioneer of California Design

I'm guessing most readers here have never heard of California apparel designer Irene Saltern. Which is, and you'll agree once you know more about her, very surprising, considering she is widely credited as a pioneer of the California sportswear industry. Other designers who were her contemporaries are more well known, but Ms. Saltern's influence cannot be denied.

Her story is incredibly interesting; she was a true Renaissance woman. She was born Irene Stern in 1911, in Germany. A multi-talented individual, she worked for a short time as a radio journalist and, later, became a seamstress.

Among her neighbors while she was still living in Germany was Albert Einstein, who taught her to sail. Instilled with a lifelong love of sailing, many of her designs were nautical themed. She took fashion classes in Berlin, and when she moved to California with husband Harry Salinger in the late 30s, she became a costume designer for the movies. In the 40s, she was in charge of actresses' wardrobes at Samuel Goldwyn Pictures, and was a contemporary of Gilbert Adrian, who was at Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer. The Sept. 14, 1995, issue of the LA Times quotes her as saying, "If [Gilbert] Adrian was the king of designers, I was one of the princesses." She did the costumes for nearly 40 Hollywood films, including The Call of the Yukon and The Howards of Virginia. She was the favorite designer of dancer Ann Miller and actress Martha Scott.

In the late 40s, Ms. Salinger started designing commercially as "Irene Saltern," and became head designer for Tabak of California, one of the powerhouses of the "California Sportswear Revolution." The influence of Irene Saltern and Lou Tabak on the burgeoning industry was profound. Ms. Saltern designed lines of separates and coordinates — jackets, skirts, cigarette slacks, shorts, tops — that were sold with hangtags proclaiming they were "a Tabak Tie-in." She also designed classic dresses and suits, with lines that flattered the female figure. Her designs can be worn today and present as stylishly as they did decades ago. And the fabrics she used, particularly her wools and silks, and the workmanship are exquisite.


In addition to working for Tabak, she briefly headed up her own firm, Irene Saltern of California, and worked for other design houses, including Phil Rose and Lanz of California, from which she retired in 1978. In the 60s, she was noted for starting the trend of those big hardware-inspired chunky belts, after a visit to the hardware store! And, after a trip to India, she started creating Indian-inspired designs, which, of course, were hugein the 1960s and 1970s.

Ms. Saltern passed away in 2005 at the age of 94. Her sketches are preserved at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts & Sciences, and both her apparel and sketches are featured in the collections of the Fashion Institute of Technology and the Los Angeles County Museum.

The Reflections of Vintage team pays tribute this week to this unsung pioneer and to the amazing California designers who came after her.

Saltern of California Full-Skirt Butterfly Dress, sold by Vintage Baubles:




Cute Vintage 1960s Pink Wool Knit 3 Piece Outfit Tabak B34 W25 from After Dark Vintage:




Vintage 80s Does 40s California Designer Karen Alexander Tropical Caribbean Vacation Novelty Print Sunshine Yellow Day Shirt Dress - Size XS to S, from Catseye Vintage:




Vintage 50s 60s Tabak of California Mad Men Blue Wool Pencil Skirt Suit, XS Sm, from Vintage Baubles Too:




Vintage 80s Does 40s California Designer Foxy Lady Nautical Black and White Day Shirt Dress - Size XS, from Catseye Vintage:




Vintage Taupe Silk Tabak Blouse Sz 10 B38 from After Dark Vintage:

Vintage Shoes & Bags for Everyday Wear!

Lots of folks think "special occasion" when they think about wearing vintage--party dresses and beaded bags or clutches to go with them, opera coats, Kentucky Derby hats, vintage wedding gowns, Springolators for Viva Las Vegas, and so on. But working vintage into your everyday wardrobe is a breeze with bags and shoes. I literally never go out of the house without a vintage shoulder bag--they're all I carry for day use, especially since the last contemporary bag I bought (leather and retailing at over $100) looked like a drowned rat six months after I got it. It makes economic sense, too. You can buy two or three, maybe more, vintage Coach bags, for example, for the price of one new one. Or, probably eight to 10 off-brand, but very high-quality, bags for the price of almost any new designer piece.

Oh, and don't get me started on shoes.... For what gals pay today for a pair of good faux leather shoes, you can get a great pair of real leather, comfortable shoes in sizes that really fit your feet! None of this "you can only get Narrow, Medium, or Wide in one shoe" business. You have medium-width feet but narrow heels, like me? Then buy a vintage pair of shoes in a "B" foot with an "A" heel, or an "A" foot and an "AA" heel. I have to put heel pads in almost every pair of shoes I buy new, but when I get the right size in a vintage shoe, it fits like the proverbial glove.

From the classic Kelly bag to cute wicker bags, and from a 1950s' pair of heels to 60s' chunky-heeled pumps, you can find find vintage styles perfect for accenting suits, dresses, skirts, and slacks and for wearing every day. Vintage is not just for special occasions!

Here are some selections from the sellers here at Vintage Reflections!


From Alley Cats Vintage:

An all-purpose, always-in-style Vintage Handbag Floral Needlepoint by Empress, Large Size Purse




Perfect for the office are these Vintage Shoes 1960s 60s Dark Brown Alligator Heels by Fiancees Sz 8AA




And, these are just the thing to keep your vintage shoes dry: Vintage Smoke Rubber Overshoes Plyron High Heel Galoshes Sz 6




Catseye Vintage has these listed:

This sweet bag is at home anywhere, from the casual to the formal: 1910 Victorian Handbag Purse Hand Crocheted Bridal Drawstring Top Off White with 3-d Pom Poms




This is perfect for those work-to-dinner days: Vintage 60s Woven Metal Box Handbag Purse 1960s VLV Bridal Evening Gold Tone Made in Hong Kong




This Vintage 60s Wicker Box Purse Handbag VLV 1960s Picture Window Purse Horse and Carriage Designer Simon does double duty for fun and for work or school.




Vintage Baubles Too is currently offering these:

Super-comfy and cute Vintage 60s Mod Suede Shoes Pumps Chunky Heel Size 6 1/2, 6.5




This sturdy, stylish everyday bag: Vintage 50s Alligator Embossed Leather Handbag Purse Kelly Bag Duchess




And this bag that's perfect for work or play, especially for a "ladies-who-lunch" outing: Vintage 50s 60s Tapestry & Patent Vinyl Kelly Bag Purse Handbag, Vegan




Be sure to visit our shops for more "very wearable" vintage!

EYE CANDY FRIDAY - NOVEMBER 5, 2010

EYE CANDY FRIDAY --

The members of the Reflections of Vintage seller's network are pleased to offer the following currently available in their shops.

Vintage 60s Silk Floral Brocade Navy Blue Cheongsam Wiggle Dress - Size Medium or Large from CATSEYE VINTAGE

Vintage 50s 60s Designer Mad Men Blue Wool Pencil Skirt Suit, XS Small from MY VINTAGE COCKTAIL

Vintage 1950s Black Taffeta Full Circle Shirtwaist Style Cocktail Dress B40 W27 from AFTER DARK VINTAGE

Vintage 40s 50s Men's Duke of Hollywood Rayon Gabardine Blue Rockabilly Loop Collar Shirt - Size Medium from CATSEYE VINTAGE

Vintage 50s 60s Pink Lightweight Wool Coat, Medium from VINTAGE BAUBLES TOO

Vintage 1940s Black Rayon and Sequinned Evening Gown B36 W32 from AFTER DARK VINTAGE

Joan Crawford - Glamorous Hollywood Star and Style Icon

Joan Crawford was one of the biggest stars in Hollywood from the time of her film debut in the silent movies of the 1920s through the 1970s and was well known for both her luminous talent as an actress and iconic style.

She was born as Lucille LeSueur on March 23, 1905 or 1906 in San Antonio, Texas and died on May 10, 1977 in New York City.

"Lucille LeSuer" began her 45 year film career with a six month contract with MGM studios in January 1925. In March of that year, MGM ran a magazine contest to find her a new name - "Joan Crawford" was the winner and her film debut under the Crawford name was in "Old Clothes" with child star Jackie Coogan in November 1925.

Joan went on to appear with the famous male stars of the day, including George K. Arthur, Harry Langdon, Charles Ray, Tim McCoy, John Gilbert, William Haines, and Lon Chaney. Her breakthrough role was in September of 1928 in her portrayal of "Diana" in "Our Dancing Daughters" and Joan became a bona fide star.

With her marvelous voice, Joan easily made the transition to talking pictures in 1929 continuing to star in many films in the early 30s, including Grand Hotel, Letty Lynton, and Rain.

From 1933 through 1936, MGM featured Joan in a series of glossy pictures where she wore stunning Adrian-designed gowns, including Dancing Lady (1933); Sadie McKee (1934); Chained (1934) Forsaking All Others (1934); No More Ladies (1935) and Love on the Run (1936).

Joan was named "Queen of the Movies" by Life Magazine in 1937.

Joan starred in many other movies in the late 1930s before leaving MGM studios in 1943.

Joan signed on with Warner Brothers Studios within a few days of leaving MGM.

In 1945 she was awarded the Academy Award for her starring role in the 1944 film Mildred Pierce. Joan also received (but did not win) an Academy Award nomination for her role in Processed (1947).

Joan continued to star in films throughout the 1940s and early 1950s, including Humoresque (1946); Possessed (1947); Daisy Kenyon (1947); Flamingo Road (1949); The Damned Don't Cry (1950); Harriet Craig (1950); Goodbye, My Fancy (1951); and this Woman is Dangerous (1951) before leaving Warner Brothers in early 1952, often wearing the classic "big shoulder" suits of the era which many people associate with her style.

After leaving Warner Brothers, Joan went on to star in several films, including Sudden Fear (1952) for which she received an another Academy Award nomination (although she didn't win); Torch Song (1953); Johnny Guitar (1954); Female on the Beach (1955); Queen Bee (1955); Autumn Leaves (1956); The Story of Esther Costello (1957); The Best of Everything (1959); and What Ever Happened to Baby Jane (1962).

Joan also appeared on television variety and talk shows and in guest spots on dramatic tv shows over 100 times from 1953 to 1972.

Joan was married and divorced three times, to actor Douglas Fairbanks, Jr (1929); to actor Franchot Tone (1935); and to actor Philip Terry (1942).

In 1955, Joan married Pepsi Cola Chairman Alfred Steele and worked with him promoting Pepsi products. Joan was married to Alfred Steele until the time of his death in 1959. She was appointed to the Pepsi Board of Directors shortly after Mr. Steele's death and acted in that capacity for 14 years.

After Joan's death in May 1977, director George Cukor organized a memorial service in Beverly Hills on June 24. Mr. Cukor's read the following tribute to Joan:

"...She was the perfect image of the movie star, and, as such, largely the creation of her own indomitable will. She had, of course, very remarkable material to work with: a quick native intelligence, tremendous animal vitality, a lovely figure and, above all, her face, that extraordinary sculptural construction of lines and planes, finely chiseled like the mask of some classical divinity from fifth-century Greece. It caught the light superbly, so that you could photograph her from any angle, and the face moved beautifully....The nearer the camera, the more tender and yielding she became---her eyes glistening, her lips avid in ecstatic acceptance. The camera saw, I suspect, a side of her that no flesh-and-blood lover ever saw....I thought Joan Crawford would never die. Come to think of it, as long as celluloid holds together and the word Hollywood means anything to anyone, she never will."

Throughout her career Joan Crawford epitomized the glamorous Hollywood star who always dressed to perfection both onscreen and off, and was once quoted as saying:

"I never go outside unless I look like Joan Crawford the movie star. If you want to see the girl next door, go next door".

The sellers of Reflections of Vintage present the following vintage fashions and accessories which could have been worn by Joan herself.

Vintage 1940s Pink Tweed Town Suit Waist B36 W28 from ALLEY CATS ATTIC:

Vintage 1940s Lightweight Topper Swing Jacket Clutch Coat from VINTAGE BAUBLES TOO:

Vintage 40s 50s Designer NARDIS OF DALLAS Deep Black 3D Hand Sequined Rayon Suit Blouse -- Bust - 34 -- Size XS - S from CATSEYE VINTAGE:

Vintage 1960s Silk Designer Sheath Dress Petite Small from VINTAGE BAUBLES TOO:

Vintage 40s Variegated Blue Boucle Knit Hand Beaded and Embroidered with Prong Set Rhinestones -- Cardigan Sweater and Skirt Suit Ensemble -- Size Small or Medium. B 36 38 from CATSEYE VINTAGE: